Thursday, 30 June 2011

Silver dream machine

 ...well, not quite. I put it back together to see just how good the finish on the inside needed to be. Turns out it is good enough. I used a wire brush in the electric drill to get the paint off the inside, so it isn't anywhere near a mirror finish. You can see there's still the odd patch of paint to come off, and then the whole thing needs polishing to get the worst of the abrasion scratches and watermarks out (see bottom pic) ...and I have to make 4 new feet. And the shift and rails need lubing and the keytops cleaning. I scoured the spotty growths from the platen with dry wire wool. So now it is shiny, but paper still feeds OK. 

But none of that really matters. The important thing is, it looks pretty damn good so far!

(Click pics to supersize)

Underwood Portable typewriter restoration

Wednesday, 29 June 2011

Ribbontop's-a- gobo


Bobbin lid, reel shield, spool cowl ...ink-cap? Take your pick.

Here's all that's left of the branding on the Underwood Portable Typewriter. I'll try to polish some of those abrasion marks but steel's so much harder than alloy. Getting there...

Tuesday, 28 June 2011

Grumpy wizards

Click image to go to Google Web Font


Just been alerted to Google Web Fonts new collection. If you fancy adding a "... Smith Corona Special Elite Type No NR6", and don't mind getting your hands dirty under your website's hood, head on over to the collection and pick a font to add to your site. For legibility, I'm sticking with Georgia, for now. Special Elite could be good for headlines though!

Beyond the pale

An update on my stripping of the Underwood 4

I'd harboured a hope that after the first application of Nitromors, I would be able to restore this 1930 Underwood 4 to its original finish. I tried to control the degree of paint removal by applying the paint stripper and leaving it for only short periods before rinsing and scrubbing it. But the glimmer quickly turned into a gleam as the aluminum began to show through, both as  normal wear patches at the corners of the keyboard and elsewhere. 

The original black was largely intact but the rear gold decals on the back were already softened and blurred by my first attempts and the original clear laquer had come off with the brown enamel. This left the black dull and lifeless. 

I'd generally consider it a sacrilege to rub down to bare metal on such an old typewriter but there wasn't much option to do anything else. I could have left it partially stripped but I'm not going to beat myself up about it. After the application by its former keeper of the brown enamel, this was never going to make a museum quality specimen - I reckon they made quite a few of this model. After a minute's reflection, I decided to go for it. The frame and front plate are both aluminium but the paper table and ribbon covers are steel and seem to be painted with different stuff which is harder to get off.

On the aluminium, I'm using 400 grit wet paper which I'll follow with 0000 grade steel wool, finishing up with Autosol chrome and alloy polish. I tried this routine on the back as a test and it seems to work OK.

After finishing, I'm not sure whether to clear laquer it to preserve the polished finish or paint it with some design or other. Suggestions welcome!

Sunday, 26 June 2011

Rear of the year

Lots of reasons for getting this typewriter:
  • One-piece quick-release alloy footbed (not sure why)
  • The colour is just about interesting enough to make it desirable
  • Groovy cat-flap at the back hides the tabulator pins
  • It is Italian
  • It is beautiful type on (despite warnings to the contrary)
  • It had my name written all over it (see above)!
  • From the rear, it has the profile of a freshly baked crusty white cottage loaf.

Test: See if you can spot the deliberate 'mistake' in its Eurotrash gallery mug-shot. 
Answers welcome in the comments box below.

PS: If you get stuck, I'll post the answer in the next post.